The kind of traveling we're doing now --- the type where you don't even bother unpacking your clothing and instead limit yourself to two outfits, the one you arrive in and the one you leave in, for the course of your time in a certain place --- just isn't my cup of chai.
Delhi was...a big city. But contrary to the theory that my father put forward during our time in Bangkok, Delhi did not look a thing like "any big city you'll ever visit". I was surprised, but it was refreshing that crowds of millions of people in one place can look different than just any other city. I was happy to live away from the hustle and bustle of the proper city, happy to see some "essentials" while there, and happy to leave the smog-ridden airs of India's capitol city...
...for the smog clouds of Amritsar --- the capitol of the Sikh world and home to their most renowned temple, The Golden Temple. It was an absolutely beautiful structure, some say, and I would agree, the second-most beautiful in India next to the Taj, of course. It had all white marble fort-like walls surrounding an inner "tank" of water, in the middle of which sat a gold-encrusted temple. There was one walkway to and from the temple, symbolizing our singular and universal passage into and out of this world.
We ran into a wonderful Sikh man who offered to give our group a 2...ahem 4-hour (remember to multiply at least twice to compensate for Indian time) tour of the temple. He not only talked with us about the temple, but was open to questions about his faith and the history of his people in Punjab. He told a very interesting story, one that I would be hard-pressed to find in any World History textbook that I have come across in my Western education. He also brought us to a wonderful Indian restaurant and then took some of the ladies shalwar and shawl shopping. He was a saint of his faith, and the world, and I was personally enormously touched by his presence and his words.
And now, after a few too many days of smoggy air and busy roads full of rickshaws, cars, and bikes, we are in Dharamsala --- the seat of the Tibetan Government in Exile. The adorable little town looks like it was painted onto the side of a the foothills (these would be called mountains anywhere else in the world) of the Himalayas. And although we can see snow under the shadow of the enormous clouds perched on top of the Big Guys, today was perfectly warm and sunny and I even took off a layer when we got here! I'm told this is not normal and Google tells me it should get a bit chillier in the coming week.
I love Dharamsala. And I think I would love it even if I hadn't come from three consecutive cities of smog. It's a lovely place, as far as I have seen. Highlights of our eight days here: long life ceremony for the Dalai Lama (who is in town!) along with thousands of others, private meeting with the Karmapa Lama (spiritual leader of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism), visits to NGOs, talks on Tibetan Buddhist philosophy. It's looking great!
Breathing clean air,
B(ee)
21 January 2010
15 January 2010
Overwhelmed, in a Word...
Internet is scarce here in India. As are heating, electricity, and water for the next month or so. Communication will not be as frequent as it has been the past four months (god...has it been that long?!), although I wish it could be.
India. So far. Has been so many things, but most of all one huge sensory overload. The sights (bright colors, people people people, and poverty at its worst), the sounds (frequent melodious car horns, talking, screaming) and the smells (spice-filled food, trash decomposing on the side of the street, sewage) --- it's felt like a nation-wide, never-ending movie that I've been placed in without a script or part to play.
I've already fell deep into and have seen the light out of my first India-induced illness. It could have been the food; it could have been the exhaust fumes; it could have been the overwhelm. But I did not let it stop me from visiting the Taj Mahal yesterday. Checking it off as my second Wonder of the World, I can understand why it is on that list. It was absolutely beautiful and we got there late enough for the fog to have settled so we could actually see the structure in all its white marble beauty.
We're moving six times in eight weeks in India, moving from Delhi to Amitsar to Dharamsala to Haridwar to Varanasi to Sikkim and Rajastan. It should be quite the experience, and if I can't tell you all about it here, I'm sure you'll be hearing about it for years to come when I return.
Overwhelmed, in the best of ways,
B(ee)
India. So far. Has been so many things, but most of all one huge sensory overload. The sights (bright colors, people people people, and poverty at its worst), the sounds (frequent melodious car horns, talking, screaming) and the smells (spice-filled food, trash decomposing on the side of the street, sewage) --- it's felt like a nation-wide, never-ending movie that I've been placed in without a script or part to play.
I've already fell deep into and have seen the light out of my first India-induced illness. It could have been the food; it could have been the exhaust fumes; it could have been the overwhelm. But I did not let it stop me from visiting the Taj Mahal yesterday. Checking it off as my second Wonder of the World, I can understand why it is on that list. It was absolutely beautiful and we got there late enough for the fog to have settled so we could actually see the structure in all its white marble beauty.
We're moving six times in eight weeks in India, moving from Delhi to Amitsar to Dharamsala to Haridwar to Varanasi to Sikkim and Rajastan. It should be quite the experience, and if I can't tell you all about it here, I'm sure you'll be hearing about it for years to come when I return.
Overwhelmed, in the best of ways,
B(ee)
11 January 2010
The "Typical" Indian Experience...
I'm here! In India! Out of the horrible concrete jungle of Bangkok and feeling better already!
My last few days in Thailand (and I'm not really sure I like to think of Bangkok as part of the Thailand I love, anyway) were memorable in their own sort of ways. Bangkok made me and my computer sick. Me, litterally ill; my computer, crashed. But with a fresh hard drive and a whole new country of adventures to embark on, it's feeling nice to move on from Bangkok, to say the least...
I'm sorry to bash on Bangkok so much. I'm sure it has its redeeming qualities. I just couldn't find them between the hassle, dirt, smog, and crowds.
Ok, honestly, maybe India isn't that much different. But it's new! And the best part is that if I feel Bangkok-sentiments growing about any place I end up, it will be alright because I won't be there longer than two weeks!
And now, after I'm done ranting about Bangkok, we have first impressions of India.
We ended up getting out of the New Delhi airport well after midnight last night and were carted off in taxis to a Tibetan community in Old Delhi. When we finally got there, it was 2 AM (felt like 3:30 AM) and we were all ready to crash. Little did we know, we were about to receive the "typical" Indian experience.
The group had to be separated into two different hotels right down the street from each other. So we sent a few people off into the first hotel and the rest of us (eight people) follow Debbi, our new assistant director and local India expert, down the street to the other hotel. After knocking on the locked door for a good three minutes, we finally hear a groan from inside the building. When Debbi said that we were here to check in, the voice seemed to utter "...no..." Molded persistent by living in India for 10 years, Debbi insisted that we in fact did have reservations and should be let in. This went on for a few more minutes until the man finally came to the door and unlocked it just enough for Debbi to get her body inside the building, insisting that the rest of us follow her. They told us that all the rooms were taken; they had no keys. Debbi knew differently. After bringing the worker from the first hotel over, the situation was finally resolved and we were given the keys to four rooms with minimal furniture, no hot water, standing at a solid 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Needless to say, I slept in layers.
And lucky for me, it's the style here to wear large Pashmina-style scarves instead of coats. I feel like I'm wearing a comfy blanket around all day. It's like I'm at home...almost...
There's much more I could write about. Many emotions have been going through me in the last twelve hours, but those feelings will resolve themselves in other blog posts.
Exploring, myself and my world,
B(ee)
My last few days in Thailand (and I'm not really sure I like to think of Bangkok as part of the Thailand I love, anyway) were memorable in their own sort of ways. Bangkok made me and my computer sick. Me, litterally ill; my computer, crashed. But with a fresh hard drive and a whole new country of adventures to embark on, it's feeling nice to move on from Bangkok, to say the least...
I'm sorry to bash on Bangkok so much. I'm sure it has its redeeming qualities. I just couldn't find them between the hassle, dirt, smog, and crowds.
Ok, honestly, maybe India isn't that much different. But it's new! And the best part is that if I feel Bangkok-sentiments growing about any place I end up, it will be alright because I won't be there longer than two weeks!
And now, after I'm done ranting about Bangkok, we have first impressions of India.
We ended up getting out of the New Delhi airport well after midnight last night and were carted off in taxis to a Tibetan community in Old Delhi. When we finally got there, it was 2 AM (felt like 3:30 AM) and we were all ready to crash. Little did we know, we were about to receive the "typical" Indian experience.
The group had to be separated into two different hotels right down the street from each other. So we sent a few people off into the first hotel and the rest of us (eight people) follow Debbi, our new assistant director and local India expert, down the street to the other hotel. After knocking on the locked door for a good three minutes, we finally hear a groan from inside the building. When Debbi said that we were here to check in, the voice seemed to utter "...no..." Molded persistent by living in India for 10 years, Debbi insisted that we in fact did have reservations and should be let in. This went on for a few more minutes until the man finally came to the door and unlocked it just enough for Debbi to get her body inside the building, insisting that the rest of us follow her. They told us that all the rooms were taken; they had no keys. Debbi knew differently. After bringing the worker from the first hotel over, the situation was finally resolved and we were given the keys to four rooms with minimal furniture, no hot water, standing at a solid 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Needless to say, I slept in layers.
And lucky for me, it's the style here to wear large Pashmina-style scarves instead of coats. I feel like I'm wearing a comfy blanket around all day. It's like I'm at home...almost...
There's much more I could write about. Many emotions have been going through me in the last twelve hours, but those feelings will resolve themselves in other blog posts.
Exploring, myself and my world,
B(ee)
04 January 2010
Christmas "Vacation"...
So much to update on, but to make a long story short, I had a splendid time showing off Chiang Mai to my parents and I think they enjoyed it almost as much as I did. I felt like a tourist for the first time there during our visit to Doi Suthep, but I guess I was just a tourist trying her best to fit in my whole time there anyway.
Bangkok...we all wished we could have done without, but knew it was a "must" if we were in Thailand. We saw may different worlds there, and maybe these collisions left our bodies confused and unsettled. The best part of Bangkok was listening to fireworks from all over the city echo across a skyline of skyscrapers for a good thirty minutes after the clock struck twelve.
Cambodia, we loved. Particularly after the unsettling feelings we had from Bangkok. The temples are gorgeous, the food is delicious, and our hotel had a pool. We had a wonderful tour guide (and driver) who gave us a very personalized tour of the sites in the area and even complied when we didn't want to vist the market or (god forbid!) more temples because of the heat.
I loved Cambodia so much that I decided to stay until I have company from my trip in Bangkok. I visited a wonderful orphanage last night and it made me want to spend some quality time in this country. For the first time over my break, I felt like I was back integrating myself with the culture rather than just doing the normal tourist rounds and it was really nice. I hope life finds me back in this wonderful, beautiful country surrounded by smiling faces, glorious laughter, and warm hearts.
Keeping the travel high,
B(ee)
Bangkok...we all wished we could have done without, but knew it was a "must" if we were in Thailand. We saw may different worlds there, and maybe these collisions left our bodies confused and unsettled. The best part of Bangkok was listening to fireworks from all over the city echo across a skyline of skyscrapers for a good thirty minutes after the clock struck twelve.
Cambodia, we loved. Particularly after the unsettling feelings we had from Bangkok. The temples are gorgeous, the food is delicious, and our hotel had a pool. We had a wonderful tour guide (and driver) who gave us a very personalized tour of the sites in the area and even complied when we didn't want to vist the market or (god forbid!) more temples because of the heat.
I loved Cambodia so much that I decided to stay until I have company from my trip in Bangkok. I visited a wonderful orphanage last night and it made me want to spend some quality time in this country. For the first time over my break, I felt like I was back integrating myself with the culture rather than just doing the normal tourist rounds and it was really nice. I hope life finds me back in this wonderful, beautiful country surrounded by smiling faces, glorious laughter, and warm hearts.
Keeping the travel high,
B(ee)
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