Can't I Just Unpack?!...

The kind of traveling we're doing now --- the type where you don't even bother unpacking your clothing and instead limit yourself to two outfits, the one you arrive in and the one you leave in, for the course of your time in a certain place --- just isn't my cup of chai.

Delhi was...a big city. But contrary to the theory that my father put forward during our time in Bangkok, Delhi did not look a thing like "any big city you'll ever visit". I was surprised, but it was refreshing that crowds of millions of people in one place can look different than just any other city. I was happy to live away from the hustle and bustle of the proper city, happy to see some "essentials" while there, and happy to leave the smog-ridden airs of India's capitol city...

...for the smog clouds of Amritsar --- the capitol of the Sikh world and home to their most renowned temple, The Golden Temple. It was an absolutely beautiful structure, some say, and I would agree, the second-most beautiful in India next to the Taj, of course. It had all white marble fort-like walls surrounding an inner "tank" of water, in the middle of which sat a gold-encrusted temple. There was one walkway to and from the temple, symbolizing our singular and universal passage into and out of this world.

We ran into a wonderful Sikh man who offered to give our group a 2...ahem 4-hour (remember to multiply at least twice to compensate for Indian time) tour of the temple. He not only talked with us about the temple, but was open to questions about his faith and the history of his people in Punjab. He told a very interesting story, one that I would be hard-pressed to find in any World History textbook that I have come across in my Western education. He also brought us to a wonderful Indian restaurant and then took some of the ladies shalwar and shawl shopping. He was a saint of his faith, and the world, and I was personally enormously touched by his presence and his words.

And now, after a few too many days of smoggy air and busy roads full of rickshaws, cars, and bikes, we are in Dharamsala --- the seat of the Tibetan Government in Exile. The adorable little town looks like it was painted onto the side of a the foothills (these would be called mountains anywhere else in the world) of the Himalayas. And although we can see snow under the shadow of the enormous clouds perched on top of the Big Guys, today was perfectly warm and sunny and I even took off a layer when we got here! I'm told this is not normal and Google tells me it should get a bit chillier in the coming week.

I love Dharamsala. And I think I would love it even if I hadn't come from three consecutive cities of smog. It's a lovely place, as far as I have seen. Highlights of our eight days here: long life ceremony for the Dalai Lama (who is in town!) along with thousands of others, private meeting with the Karmapa Lama (spiritual leader of the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism), visits to NGOs, talks on Tibetan Buddhist philosophy. It's looking great!

Breathing clean air,
B(ee)